Short Annapurna Circuit Trek

The westward journey to Dumre (400m, 4½hrs) winds over the forested Middle Hills that separate the High Himalaya from the Nepal and Indian lowlands. The road links Hindu villages and terraced farming communities, crossing several important rivers that flow from the ice fields to the north. At Dumre we turn north into the Marsyangdi Nadi Valley. A secondary road leads to the commercial centre of Besi Sahar (760m, 2hrs). A minor road then heads into the hills (2-3hrs), passing construction work on a major hydro electric scheme before climbing Syange (1 080m).

The road then enters a canyon and rises to a ridge: and Jagat (1 330m, a former salt-route toll depot to Tibet). Continue, through Chamje (1 410m) to a ‘bus stop’ opposite a suspension bridge to the east bank and a short walk to Tal. This attractive village is set in a flat valley behind which is an impressive waterfall (and palm trees). The river flows placidly between gabions. Continue 30minut drive the Dharapani   Overnight in Dharapani. .

The valley swings westwards and the trail climbs steep forested ridges, over some landslides, as it ascends the southern slopes of the valley.  Good views of the Lamjung Himal, Annapurna II (7 937m), and Annapurna IV gradually rise to the south. They come into full view at the landmark mani wall before Chame: the Manang District headquarters. Overnight in Chame.

A steep trail on the north bank, through a dense fir and pine forest, passes the gigantic curved, ice-carved rock face above Bhratang (2 950m). It rises 1 500m above the river: and takes an hour to pass. Later, walk along an impressive ledge hewn from a cliff face before the trail re-crosses to the southern bank of the river and ascends, opposite the wall, into the U-shaped upper Manang Valley between two snow peaks. The views become more exciting as you approach the split-village of Pisang. Overnight in Lower Pisang.

Two trails lead to Manang. The lower route, follows the river to Mungji (3 500m) where it meets the high route and continues to Braga and Manang. 
The challenging upper route presents some of the best scenery on the trek. Climb to Upper Pisang (3 310m) then walk through the dry Nyesyang region to Ghyaru (3 670m): a cluster-village of houses surrounded by fields of barley, buckwheat, beans and potatoes: crops that ripen in a short growing season. Follow a high traverse with great views of the whole valley to Ngawal: a village with ancient juniper trees and a neat gompa. Take a lunch after the lunch. 

Descend gradually to Mungji (3 500m), with a nunnery above the village. Next, is picturesque Braga (3 470m): with clustered houses stacked one above the other up a craggy slope. An impressive Gompa sits at the top. This is the oldest and best endowed gompa in the region. Manang is a short walk from Braga. Rest and explore the village. Overnight in Manang.

From Manang climb NE to Tengi (3 690m) then up and out of the Marsyangdi Valley; turning NW into the Jarsang Khola Valley. Ascend slowly to minimise altitude problems. 
The trail passes summer kharkas through scrub juniper as it steadily climbs above Gunsang (3 920m): a cluster of flat mud roofs just below. Continue to Ghyanchang (4 000m) before dropping to cross a tributary; then rising through kharkas of grazing horses and yaks. Later, a wooden bridge, heads towards an ancient mani wall and the small village of Yak Kharka; with great views. Overnight in Yak Kharka. 

A short day’s slow, steady 500m climb leads to the seasonal outpost before the pass. The path snakes through desolate high scenery: scrub vegetation gradually giving way to rock, scree and an exposed path across a landslide before reaching the trekker-lodge at Thorung Phedi (foot of the hill). There is a single teahouse with a warm cosy dining room and beds for some 150 trekkers. It closes for the winter months. Overnight in Thorung Phedi.

Further up the “hill” lodge staff man a small stone teahouse on a cold exposed ridge: known as High Camp. Rather stay at Thorung Phedi than head for this elevation: just for a shorter summit day. 

A pre-dawn start is wise for this long arduous day. There is a 900m/3 000ft ascent before a 1 600m/5 250ft descent. From the teahouse the path climbs steeply up the valley: leading to a stiffer ascent up an ancient moraine. After that, it ascends more gently. Thorung La is a flag bedecked col between Thorung Peak (6 211m/20 378ft) and Yakwakang’s (6 482m/15 434ft) stupendous cliffs.

Views back to the east are snowy. Ahead and far below is the brown desolate scenery of the rain-parched Kali Gandaki-Mustang Valley. On the opposite side of the valley, the huge Dhaulagiri range rises to the southwest. Ahead and to the north, the mountains of Dolpo stretch to the horizon: these are an extension of the Tibetan uplands to the north.
After photos and a rest, begin the ~4hr descent to Muktinath. Tread with care as the path drops steeply over loose gravel. Later, it becomes rockier and easier to walk on. The captivating scenery and chance to “sleep low” should spur you on.

Eventually, the important Hindu and Buddhist pilgrimage site of Muktinath will come into view. This oasis of springs is surrounded by a lengthy wall and is bedecked by thousands of prayer flags. There is a small Vishnu temple and smaller Buddhist shrine: testament to Nepal’s religious harmony. The Tibetan name for this oasis is Chu Mig Tsa Gye (108 springs).  
The dusty village of Ranipauwa (3 710m, and traffic) is a 10 minute walk beyond the shrine.  The region is collectively known as Muktinath. Overnight in Ranipauwa. 

A rutted road has been built, mostly along the trekking trails, from the lowlands to Muktinath. A recent Chinese road from Tibet through Upper Mustang meets this road below Kagbeni (2 840m: consider a detour to this fascinating ‘first village’ into Mustang.) From ~10:00 to 16:00, daily winds blow in dust from the lowlands and now the gravel road makes trekking particularly unpleasant.

Jeep transport has become preferable through this rugged scenery; and returning vegetation. Jeeps are used for the drive to Jomsom (2 760m, administrative centre of the Lower Mustang region). Change to a second jeep for Tatopani (hot springs). From there we leave the road and Buddhist culture – and trek into lush forest once more. Overnight in Tatopani.

Drive south up the Kali Gandakis west bank, to Tiplyang. The hills are lush with forest and terraced fields. Crops include rice (three crops a year), maize, wheat and greens for local use. Cross to the east bank and continue, Beni, After the beni continues drive to Pokhara Overnight in Pokhara.

After breakfast, drive to the nearby airport and fly back to Kathmandu along the Himalayan Range. Transfer to your hotel. Afternoon free.

Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight to your next destination.